Russia

Upon a slight error in our hotel reservation for our visa, we realised we booked, not a simple dorm bed but one of the top notch hotel tower in town. Cautious of efficiency, we managed to put a few more teams in our room and enjoyed our last day of luxury before dust and desert engulf us.

A quick visit in town and we are off again, heading this time to the northern border of Kazakhstan. Our road is mostly punctuated with random police stops trying to fish for fines (in Russian Straff). Our group happily chat and laugh with policemen while our stock of little Koala is put to good usage as we come out so far without any fines.

The main issue came in the form of some cars in our convoy started to feel the load of the trip. Luckily for us, Doris is doing just fine. An element of success is the fact that Michael is still doing most of the driving while Freddy is getting acquainted with technical terms inRussian.

After 2 days gone we finally head to the russian motherland.

Quote of the day

2 actually, translated from Russian says:

What I take away from today

Another country who fell down and struggle to get back on its feet after the end of the soviet empire, another country for which I had inital predjudice and yet surprised me by its hospitable demeanor.

Tomorrow

Short trip in Russia before the mother of all rides, Mongolia!!!

After a couple of navigation errors, lost in the cotton fields and asking for locals our way out, we finally made it to the border. We join straight away the Pamir Highway across the Kyrgyz Mountains. The Landscape is just stunning, glacier lakes, red rocks under midday sun, snow-capped peaks behind rolling hills, horses in pasture and yurts. Kyrgyzstan is probably the most picturesque country I have ever seen. We stop on our road to Bishkek to try Mare milk and cheese. The cheese is…strong and the mare milk, I somewhat dread to taste.

A short night in Bishkek meeting international and other ralliers and we set off to see the Issyk-Kul Lake. Second biggest Alpine lake in the world, it is considered by the people of this landlocked country as a national treasure.

On the shores we meet Talgar, the eagle hunter (hunting with eagles not hunting eagles). He accepted kindly to put on a demonstration of his eagle Tomura deadly skills.

Talgar let us hold her and explain the very special relationship formed between him and the powerful animal. An eagle such as Tomura leaves up to 40 years. Talgar will keep, feed and train her for the first 10 years of her life and will release her high in the mountains on her 20^th birthday.

He told us that being an eagle hunter is an important role as it helps monitor and safeguard those beautiful creatures.

We leave Talgar and Tomura after a quick photo session with Doris.  The next day we return to Bishkek to cross the only border open to foreigners. Doris and our gears enjoyed a few days of good road, cool and pure mountain fresh air before heading to our final Stan.

Quote of the day

No quotes today.

What I take away from today

Not much to be honest, I spent most of my days in Kyrgyzstan behind my lenses shooting photos of amazing landscape. Our interaction with locals was very minimal so a little sad we had to drive off so quickly

Tomorrow

Kazakhstan; the last “stan” before the real deal and the one I dread the most for its dodgy police and officials

Of all the Stans, Uzbekistan is probably the most exposed to international tourism. The main reason is the historical treasures this country has. But we found out that this country was so much more than beautiful old monuments.

Uzbekistan is my hot spot for culture, beautiful monuments and historical places. From the Zoroastrian temple, turned into a mosque and Synagogue to one of the greatest Russian impressionist art gallery in the world, our stay in Uzbekistan was rich in learning.

The gems of this country are the walled city of Khiva, a perfectly conserved city. All houses made of the same light brown mud and straw material apart for the entry and decoration in flamboyant tile work of blue and green from historical madrassas or minarets. We walk around history till sunset, stopping to enjoy our first Plov (Tradition rice pilaf) with the hosting family.

Our second big city stop takes us to Bukhara, central Asia holiest site. The road is atrocious. A 300km strip of badly potholed tarmac set our speed to a staggering 30kms average. Car, necks and backs are all sour from bumps.

The pain of the road is easily washed down by our later arrival in a beautiful centre. Our evening is spent walking around town, stopping in chaikana, local tea house to enjoy some fine shashliyks and drink tea through the night.

Our tour on the next day takes us through some of Islam most famous historical seminaries. We soak history through beautiful madrassas, historical figures and stories about the city.

Our last stop, Samarkand! A magical name, synonymous of silk caravans, nomadic empires and a feel for a world to be explored. The sights of Samarkand are just stunning, whether you see them restored or as they are, all of them offer you an idea of the wealth of this historical city.

Our last day in Andijan was supposed to be just a drive through on our way to Kyrgyzstan. Lost on the way, we ask the meet a local police officer who helped us out, got his little brother out of a party to help us with English translation. We spend the evening with him talking about the trip, life in Uzbekistan and his projects to go to uni in Australia. Very reflective of our stay in Uzbekistan.

A country I regret to leave so shortly. A point of the map marked for return.

7^th August: Tajikistan

Quote of the day

Police officer driving us towards the exit of the city: “Remember, Kyrgyz have guns and Andijan people are the friendliest ever, ever!!:

What I take away from today

How amazingly friendly Uzbek people are, regardless of their situation or yours. They make the best out of life, everyday.

Tomorrow

Kyrgyzstan, mountain sceneries, yurts and eagles awaits

Looking at the longest border crossing ever thought of, the omnipresence of police, army , cctv camera around Ashgabat and of course, the president photo placarted everywhere, one can get a glimpse of how life for normal Turkmen must be. Despite this condition of propaganda and dictatorship, the Turkmen are by far, the friendliest people we met on the road. Everyone waives at you. Every person we met in Ashgabat seems to know of the Mongol Rally. Even the folks processing our visas for over 14hrs were quite friendly. Both group trapped by an awful administration.

Waking up fresh of the night outside of Turkmenbashi, the same image of a barren land with only a few shrubs. After a short breakfast we all head to Ashgabat. The road are worst than anticipated with a max speed limit of 50kms per hours and Michael avoiding scratching the car every 2 seconds.

After 5 hours of scorching sun and bumps we finally made it to the Underground lake of Kow-Ata. A 65m stair case lead you straight down to this sulphuric underground hot spring.  Turns out that what we thought would be a good idea to refresh and relax gave us more an ijmpression of what a boiled egg would feel like.

The rest of the road is getting better. Our arrival in Ashgabat feels like travellers reaching an oasis, perfect asphalt, clean cars (you get a fine if your ride is dirty in the city) driving around marble and gold palaces, fountains and beautiful parks. Flags and photos or news broadcast of the president seating in his “command room”

This city is the living artefact of the sun-king complex of previous president Niazov. Slightly, only slightly toned down for the current one.

Our late arrival means hunting for hotels was quite a challenge. We finally settle for some decrepit joint with less than salubrious facilities. At that time of the day and considering the road we had, no one really cared. Shower to get rid of the egg smell, we head to the local bar in the hotel backyard. We found other team also feasting on Shashlik and beer. Some of the best meal

Quote of the day

Other pickled travellers met in the lobby: “Don’t speak out too loud in this hotel, the microphones are old and they might not pick the higher pitch of your voice.”

What I take away from today

A theory:

“The friendlier the autochthones, the least likely they will have a good democracy.

Demonstration:

• Turkmen, Georgian and Azeri are very friendly. Their government is far from quality
• French, German, English have some of the most developed democracies.

Opposite works. Make sense! Demonstration successful

Tomorrow

6 countries to cross, 900kms and night in Belgrade.

 Arriving late at night in Baku and it feels like they put on the show just for you. All palace are lighten up, driving through the gates of the walled old city feels like jumping back in time. A visit of the city on the next day tells the same story. Walking through the narrow streets of the old city, freshly cleaned for the Eurovision and around the luxury high rise building full of Chanel stores gave the whole city a pastiche look. Most of the young, liberal minded Baku resident we met seemed all obsessed by appearance and money. A saddening view of what easy money creates.

Trying to snatch a bit of internet in Maccas we discover the news about Pamirs. Michael and I were shattered. No Pamir??? The most expected part of our trip was a giant cross now. I bet it will only be for next time. We still decide to wait till Samarkand before making the call.

A short excursion to the James Bond Oil fields gave us a much poorer yet brighter side of the Azeri. While posing and shooting video in front of the oil fields we were greeted by an old ladies, her daughters and grandchildren. All the family living in a very modest condition right next to rusty abandoned warehouses and oil rigs.

After giving the kids a few koalas for the kids and a plush toy. We are invited for tea. A little uncomfortable about disturbing and leaving Doris by herself in a shabby looking environment, we accept. Thanks to my poor Russian and hers mixed with Azeri we managed to exchange bits of conversation. The Tea invite turns into a giant afternoon tea with cake, melons, cakes and sweets. A warm feeling to see how hospitable Azeris were.

The next day spent in doing a bit of soviet shopping, finding the Turkmen embassy and trying to explain in Russian how we wanted to have tailor made skid plates installed on Doris. This time, my Russian was clearly insufficient. Luckily the coach of the national team of Basketball was there too. Thanks to his help and about 2 hours of trying to find the right solution we managed to strike a deal with one of the mechanics.

We finished our second day meeting with other rally teams for a well-deserved and refreshing beer and kebap.

The last day was almost identical to the previous one. Queuing at the embassy, rushing to the car workshop, waiting for almost 4 hrs. Rushing through the city to get to the ferry and then wait, about 10hrs before boarding a ship that is definitely not built for passengers (normally carries train carriages).

Quote of the day

Ismael (soviet antique shop owner): “Yes, yes we have a bit more freedom than with the soviet, seriously bring back Stalin.”

Freddy: “Humm…really?”

Ismael: “yes, yes. He didn’t care for people, he arrested and killed his opponents, same, same as president but at least he had plans for the country and not too many friends”

What I take away from today

Honestly, happy to leave the country, although I feel that there is so much more to see under this oily surface.

Tomorrow

Hopefully a quick ride to turkmenbashi so I can get off the ferry pronto. Roach infested cabins and toilets, well Ramadan it is without the Iftar in the evening.

Paying a last goodbye to Istanbul with the visit of the blue mosque, we take the road quite late during the day, this means we spend most of the 8 hours on the road transforming Doris in our own version of a Turkish bath. Humm Steamy…

8 long hours punctuated with a extend planes and a few grand sights such as the salt lake, unfortunately, no time to stop to muck around the salty mud.

Our lonesome drive finally comes to an end. The first sight of the troglodyte habitats shows on the turn of road. Perfect timing for us to arrive with the sun setting over the plateau and the call of the muezzin heard through the canyon.

I jump out of the car, running up the hill to capture the last glimpse of sun set over the canyon. An odd sight, lost in the middle of this semi-arid region, this mineral landscape, almost lunar testifies of a very dynamic human life, adapting and crafting the terrain to their need.

As part of the photo shot, I thought it would be a brilliant idea to pull out my hat and take a couple of pictures of it on top of Doris. Bad, Bad, Bad idea, we end up rushing to another spot, leaving it on the roof of the car. Realising my mistake only in the next morning, we return to the spot where the hat could have been found. Very sad to lose my beautiful Adventourists hat and Michael’s tank glasses at the same time.

After a good night sleep in a cave hotel, we wake up with sight of the canyon next to the hotel swimming pool. A shame we have no time to jump in this cool clear water. A day of exploration and bad road awaits.

Our next stop, the Goreme open air museum opens to a series of admirably crafted churches, chapels and city halls. The cool and dark atmosphere within those ancient places strikes against the harsh sun hitting the plateau.

After walking around those ancient lands, we take the road once more around mid-day. Heading to the coast we plan on taking a break in one of the black sea city of Turkey, mostly to break our route in 2.

The long, bad and windy road through the Tukish mountains reminds me a lot of the alps, deep valley and villages on the side of the mountains. One difference though, minaret are replacing churches. Our arrival in Unye coincides with the beginning of Iftar, feast that break the fast of the Ramadan. A feeling of party can be felt through the air and we enjoy our first true Turkish feast with loads of mezze and local kebap.

Quote of the day

Michael after me leaving, again, another thing on the roof and drive off : “Fred, if you leave one more thing on top of the car I kill you!” (use German accent for extra effect)

What I take away from today

How incredibly resilient humans can be and how well we adapt to any environment.

Tomorrow

We take the road to Batumi, our first country in the Caucasus. I am very much looking forward to experience the famed Georgian food and culture.

Our first stop in the Caucasus region! A country I have been eager to visit since hearing Ukrainians raving about it so much.

An early start from Turkey, we pass the border w/out too much struggle. 20 mins max. We already start to see the nature of people with our border guards, all ready to chat and laugh, a very pleasant crossing altogether.

Our first 10 mins on the road sets the scene; roads gone from ok to quite bad- drivers interpret the road signs, speed limits and rules very figuratively! We get stopped in the middle of the city by a a herd of cows crossing the road.

After less than an hours’ drive we arrive to our destination, Batumi, capital of the autonomous republic of Adjara. Strolling around the city, we discover a mix of seaside, high-class, renovated 18^th century buildings mixed with derelict blocks from the same era. The main street on the beach front reminds us of Miami. Large boulevards complemented with palm trees, sports cars, and expensive looking people.

A splash in the black sea is a much rewarding experience after several long days of overheating in the car. In our hotel we meet a group of Australians, the flying cyclists, riding from London to Brisbane. We discuss the road and paperwork. Their logistics, being able to do only so many km a day seems a lot more than ours.

The next day an unfortunate accident at the ATM forces us to wait most of the day in Batumi. We rest, sleep, do our washing and have a last splash in the black sea before heading to Tbilisi for the night.

The drive from Batumi to Tbilisi is a scary piece. Georgians are crazy on the road. About 1/3^rd of the way we stop in a UNESCO listed heritage, the gelati monastery and the bagrati cathedral.

The  Gelati monastery stands atop of cliff along a mountain river. The site is well maintained and we meet and greet locals included a young bear saved by the keepers. This little male is only 4 months old and yet you can start to feel the potential force going through this creature. This does not stop Michael and me playing with him for a good 15 min.

Our next stop was one of the most impressive sights we have seen so far. Sitting atop of the hill, the Bagrati cathedral stands bulky yet magnificent edifice. Our late arrival (around 21:00) makes us the only tourists in the area.

We enter the edifice with the sound of bats flying over our heads. Shadows of worshipers, praying in whispers can barely be seen through the fading lights of candles. No external or artificial lights can be seen. I feel very special to be in this place at this time. An orthodox clerk prays in front of the wall of icons. One of the most memorable moments and photos I have ever taken.

We drive through the evening on a mountain road to Tbilisi. Despite the omnipresent police and the crazy driving style of Georgian, we finally made it to Tbilisi. Arriving at 1:30 in the morning. We both fall asleep like stones.

Our stay in the Why not? Legend hostel was great. Catered by a mix of American and Georgian young people, staffs are really friendly and helpful. We plot our route, deciding against the idea of going to Armenia due to a limited number of pages available on my passport.

The morning is spent strolling through Tbilisi, famed Georgian wine tasting at 10am, Visit of the old town, tasting local specialty Khinkalni (A giant meat steamed dumpling). We get out of the city with some difficulty and stop a few kms away for a golf session atop a ravine overlooking a river, forest and power plant.

Azeri border is long, annoying and after a couple of $ less and some of my finest cigars, we are en route to Baku. Stopped for “speeding” twice in 5 min we start to get a feel for the country we are going to spend a fair few days in.

Quote of the day

• Hostel attendant: “You going to Mongolia? Oh yes we have been at war with those people”
• Freddy : “At war?? How long ago was that!”
• Hostel attendant: “When the hordes came up to Caucasus.”
• Freddy: “…”

What I take away from today

Correction to my earlier statement, not all the Georgians seems hospitable. From our time in Batumi or in Tbilisi, it appeared to us that we could define the population in 2 groups, the homo sovieticus and the rest. I define the homo sovieticus as rough cut men/women with an absent look on their face and all the visible damages produced by an excess of vodka or any beverage, an early life within USSR or the remains of it. Probably brought up in particularly harsh conditions, constantly drunk and looking as derelict as the some of the houses we seen.

I cannot stop feeling sorry for those lads, merely the product of the fall of the soviet empire and what followed. This reminds me so much of what I have seen 8 years ago in Ukraine. A good reminder of how our trip besides being a great adventure is not a pointless drive. We both are really looking forward to meeting the kids and staff of the Lotus Children Centre upon our arrival in Ulaanbaatar.

As for the other part of the population, thankfully they are a heteroclite and dynamic mix of style and sounds presenting a much more encouraging face for those countries. Those are the faces and voices I prefer to keep as memories.

Tomorrow

We stay in Baku for couple of days, hoping to obtain our visas to Turkmenistan, get on board a dodgy ferry and get skid plates on the car.

Our Day

Our breakfast view tells it all, today is going to be sunny, splendid and as uncaring as possible.

Starting with Hagia Sophia, we touching the very heart of what Byzantium/Constantinople/Istanbul has been and is. A 1,500 year old building that served 4 empires including both Christian and Muslim. Walking through the building, I cannot stop notifying number of Christian symbols have been persevered. A reminder of how much Islam has been a religion of tolerance and respect. Much different view than the tarnished image currently cast by a bunch of crazies, hard core clerics and medias.

We wonder around the giant edifice for a good 2 hours. Followed by a short stroll across Sultanamhet square for Turkish coffee and a quick visit on the outside of the blue mosque (t’was prayer time so we couldn’t get inside) followed by the Topkapi palace with visit of the harem and the archeological museum.

Topkapi palace was good although a tad underwhelming for the price you pay (~25euros).

The archeological museum on the other hand is stunning. With a history as rich as the city has, unearthing treasure would not be a difficult. Greek, Egyptian, byzantine, roman sections battle for the most impressive piece.

Wary from this stomping around the gallery of the museum we decide to continue our uber-touristy day with a Hammam deluxe treatment. Both walk in a little uncomfortable, overall we had a great time getting scrubbed. Interestingly what came to our mind was not how great the Turkish sense of hospitality but “How lazy those Sultans/Vizir/Pasha must have been!”

The evening ends with a photo shooting from the Galata bridge and a dinner in Beyoglu. Sitting in the middle of small back alley, we cheer with the crowd to the sound of buskers passing by and singing popular songs. We catch-up with Claudia, a friend of Michael with whom we spend a really pleasant evening around tea and Shisha.

Quote of the day

Guide at the blue mosque: “Islam forbid alcohol but even more on Friday. On Friday, it’s much more forbidden than other days”

What I take away from today

A taste of what I thought of what Istanbul would be. I will come back for sure.

Tomorrow

We are heading for the Anatolian Desert. First semi-arid region we are crossing. To be expected canyons, ferry chimney, troglodyte churches and the official start of Ramadan.

Tents dressed up for local specialties, Courtyard turned into a concert and dancefloor, basements and barracks rearranged for Shisha and drinking salon, Fire twirlers dancing in the sound of bohemian music in front of the gates.

All of this was brilliant but what really made the night was the people we met. A true feeling of camaraderie and seeing the different aspiration of each. It was increadible to hear what made all of us, from completely different corner of the globe and very varied background, come together to join this charity “race” of a lifetime.

The night carried on, cheers and toasts were heard across the castle, rolling down all the way to our camping ground underneath we carried through the night glorifying our road ahead, the beautiful countries we left and the stories to come. A beautiful night, ending up with me injuring myself for reasons too embarrassing to be posted.

Quote of the day

Michael, talking about my little clutch problems: “you are pulling my leg aren’t you?”

Fred: “I wish I was”

Michael: “No seriously, you are just kidding me”

Freddy: “Well, maybe it’s better for me to say it was a joke”

Michael: “Okay…”

What I take away from today

How lucky we all are to be given the opportunity, at least once in our lifetime to do such a great road trip.

Oh and yes some driving lessons too

Tomorrow

6 countries to cross, 900kms and night in Belgrade.